Friday, January 20, 2012

All Fears Assuaged: I'm Lovin' the Goatmilk Soap


So yesterday I was second guessing my decision to put my first batch of goatmilk soap in the oven to induce gel.  In the end I thought that maybe the larger batch that I had pulled out of the oven first, and that had retained its original color, might be the superior batch.  I really thought I had ruined the smaller batch which had turned caramel-colored in the oven.

Well, after disrobing both batches this morning, I was a bit surprised to find them looking about the same in appearance.  I was certain that the uncolored soap portion in each would be a different color, and I was pretty sure that the caramel-colored batch would turn out darker than the other.

from the larger batch 

from the smaller batch
(the one I thought I had overheated)

 I am  really tickled with this soap.  It looks nice.  I love the green imparted by the nettle leaf powder.  I will definitely use it in the next batch.  However, I will color a larger portion of raw soap green next time for a heightened effect.  I am still uncertain whether I like the layered look with green sandwiched by the warm golden hues of the natural goatmilk soap better than the soap with a green layer on top.  And the smell is addictve! Rosemary Mint is a winner! I kind of wished I had left one of the loafs out of the oven so I could observe whether gelling really was a concern, but then I risked having about 3 lbs of imperfect soap.  I am speculating that because I used the powdered goatmilk, I didn't have the overheating issues found more commonly with fresh milk. Four weeks from now, I get to try this soap firsthand and see how goatmilk soap compares to my vegan soaps.  Poor Me!  I am liking this goatmilk soap.

Thursday, January 19, 2012

So Many Variables.. First Time to Soap Goat Milk


Yesterday I spent the greater part of the day scanning sites trying to impress upon my brain everything I could learn about making goatmilk soap.  This has not been the first time I've researched it either. I've read an entire book on this subject. I have vacillated back and forth about whether to add goatmilk soap to my line because I wasn't sure if I should stick to vegan raw materials or attempt to compete in both very unique markets.  Potential customers at Christmas shows asking if I had any goatmilk soap finally convinced me to give it a try.  So, it is with trepidation that I embark on this soaping project.  You see, some would suggest that making goatmilk soap is not the daunting task that many profess, but when I read the vast array of opinions on how it's so "easily" done, my brain gets fuzzy.

I used Meyenberg Powdered Milk
First of all, you have to decide whether you want to use fresh, condensed, or powdered goatmilk.  Fresh is supposedly superior, but that claim is usually made by soapers who raise and milk their own goats so I'm thinking there could be a bit of bias in their opinion.  This method requires you freeze the fresh milk into ice cubes and make a slush, very slowly adding it to your lye water, and all the time making sure the temp. doesn't rise leaving you with scalded milk and darker colored soap.  Now, the condensed milk requires dilution though some soapers seem to prefer this method.  I decided to opt for the powdered goat milk.  I simply had to figure out how much water I was using in the recipe and add the amount of powder to equal the proper milk concentration. Instead of adding it to my water and having to anticipate overheating similar to the fresh milk method, I reserved a bit of my oils and mixed them with the powdered milk.  Doing this, I could wait until the soap is almost ready before adding goat milk thus avoiding the immediate overheating issue.

But that's not the only consideration with goat milk soap.  What kind of mold to use seems to be another factor.   Many had trouble with loaf molds; their soap overheated after they poured them and had the dark appearance which apparently is not desired with goatmilk soap.  Many soapers opt to use slab molds which spread out the soap as well as the heat that is contained therein.  Then, there are testimonies of soapers who didn't even get a full gel and used a loaf pan.  Did I mention that a huge numbers of soapers avoid overheating issues altogether by preventing gel?  They stick their mold of soap in the freezer or fridge until saponifcation is a done deal.  But that sometimes presents crumbly soap especially around the edges.  What's a soapmaker to do?  Well, I wanted to make mine in a loaf pan because I am really wanting to cut it with my new crinkly cutter that hubby got me for Christmas.  If I make it in a slab, it will simply have to be scored and cut in bricks.  Decision made on that point. I would gel  and use my loaf mold.

And so last night, I measured out all of my ingredients.  I played around with various essential oil combinations until I finally had one I really liked.  (It was peppermint with equal portions of rosemary, lavender, and star anise) I had already decided this soap would be scented.  For most people, scent is an integral part of which soap to buy. Most people desire a little something more than the scent of natural soap. (though I'm beginning to enjoy it more and more) I decided to add some nettle powder giving it a beautiful green hue.  But this would only be added to a small portion of soap poured on top and slightly swirled.

Goatmilk soap in process
Everything went well this morning.  I prepared my molds and got my solid oils melting.  I soaped and made pretty creamy soap in the pot with my goatmilk/oil sluice.  I then needed to decide whether to insulate or not.  I decided to go ahead with insulating.  when I checked on my soap a bit later, it wasn't very warm to my touch.Perhaps I should have heeded one soapmaker's advice akin to baking gingerbread men. No peeking!   I began to doubt that it would gel, and I really wanted it to gel.  I started to entertain the notion of sticking it in a warm oven to insure gel.  I seemed to recall such advice given on a  forum I had read to someone who only got partial gel.  I Did Not want partial gel.  So I did it.  I put my soap in the oven.  How ironic.  I go from worrying about overheating to worrying about underheating.

My caramel soap in loaf 
How someone feels making goatmilk soap.
The large loaf seemed to get harder but mostly retained its color.  I took it out and placed it back in its towels to nest.  The smaller one (which was also fuller) was softer and so I allowed it to stay in there a few more minutes. When I went back to check on it, it had turned a dark caramel color.  Now, it's hard to say.  Did I induce overheating or the gel process?  Will the larger loaf completely gel?  Maybe I ruined both batches. The first time I peeked and saw gelled soap, it scared me.  It turns translucent and changes colors so it's possible that what I was seeing was gelling progress.  My brain is still fuzzy!   I'll let you know the final results tomorrow.

Wednesday, January 4, 2012

Experiments with Color: Soaping Naturally

I've been wanting to do an experiment using natural colorants for some time now.  Sometimes, its OK or even best to just add the powdered herb directly to the soap at trace.  But in some cases, the soap will come out a bit speckled which is not always desirable, and it may also leave the soap feeling a bit scratchy.  In the past, when I wanted to make an oil infusion, I have gotten out my trusty mini crock pot.  I would add an undetermined amount of olive oil and a couple of tablespoons of alkanet root powder or annatto seeds, (Those 2 have been the ones I have used most often.)  And I would let my crock pot "have at it."  And I've gotten good results.  However, I have felt the need for more precise measurements, and  there is such a variety of herbs and spices to choose from, I have been eager to expand my tool chest a bit in this department.
muslin tea bags 
5 oz. of olive oil added to each half pint jar


  I decided to do a whole set of oil infusions in mammoth proportions to my normal "mini-crockpot" routine.  I chose 14 different herbs and spices to add to these drawstring tie tea bags. All of these ingredients were dried or in powder form.  My understanding is that if you choose to make infusions with fresh herbs, you should soap them immediately as they will be easily susceptible to spoilage. 


Here's the line-up:
1.  alkanet root                    8.  indigo
2.  annatto seeds                 9.  nettle leaf
3.  black walnut hull          10. paprika
4.  burdock leaf                 11.  safflower
5.  calendula flowers         12.  spirulina
6.  comfrey leaf                 13.  turmeric
7. dandelion leaf                14.  woad


In the past, I have always added my botanicals and spices directly to the oil.  But then, I had to strain the oil through cheesecloth to remove any debris.  This is messy.  I had read of others using tea bags, coffee filters, and other such methods to encapsulate the spices and herbs to avoid that messy step. Sounded good to me.  I decided upon muslin tea bags from a local organic grocery store.  I ended up needing a few more bags, so I thought I would also try out the coffee filter idea.  Three of the infusions were done using coffee filters I stapled shut; the rest were done with the cloth tea bags.                                                                                                                                      
  
I measured out 5 oz. of olive oil into each of the half pint jars.  I chose olive oil because of its long shelf life.  Almond oil would be another good choice.  You could probably eyeball the amount of oil, but I was wanting to make more precise measurements when it comes to adding colorants, and so I wanted each infusion to be the same.
olive oil measured out and awaiting fresh herbs and spices

I used the spirulina from my vitamin stash for this one.
Most of the herbs and spices came ready to be measured out.  Spirulina did not.  I am currently in dream/plan mode of a really colorful soap with various shades of green and blue.  I just couldn't resist trying out blue-green spirulina.  Since I had some capsules in the cabinet, I thought, "Why not?" So I did.  But that meant prying open each capsule to get to the powder inside.  I discovered there's quite a bit of powder in each one of these babies.  And this infusion, took by far, the longest to prepare.  I will be ordering this in quantity for the future.                                                                                                                                                                                                                        

I added 2 tablespoons of each herb to a tea bag with the exception of indigo and woad.  These natural colorants are so strong, I only added 1/4 teaspoon of powder to each tea bag.  I decided to use my tamale pot due to its large capacity.  I was able to fit 11 half-pint jars into this single pot.  I used a smaller pot for the other 3 jars.  The tray at the bottom of the pot made me feel less likely to overheat and crack the jars though I did only heat the burners to low. I basically allowed the herbs and spices to infuse for 3 hours in a hot water bath on low heat.  I slowly cooled them on a towel when I thought they had steeped sufficiently.  Most of the oils were fairly dark by this time, but I decided to allow them to continue to naturally infuse for a few more days.
infusions in the pot

Ready to go
  Most of the infusions came out as expected. A few of the herbs/spices are supposed to lend a yellowish tent.  Since olive oil is already yellow, it is hard to detect a difference with some of these.
Here are my general observations:
1. Alkanet root--nice dark purple.
2.  Annatto seeds -- bright orange infusion.
3.  Black walnut hull-- brownish-green
4.  Burdock Leaf-  not much change on this one
5.  Calendula Flowers-- is supposed to add yellow color, but not much change
6.  Comfrey Leaf-- greenish, but not as dark as I would like
7.  Dandelion leaf-- green
8.  Indigo-- this is supposed to add the color of denim, but this infusion is looking green.  Can't wait to see  what happens in soap.
9.  Nettle Leaf--- olive green
10. Paprika-- looks a lot like annatto seed infusion.  Bright orange.
11.  Safflower--more golden than plain olive oil with some red tint in there to boot (may be the powder escaping the tea bag.)
12.  Spirulina-- dark blue/green.  This one is going to be fun to use
13.  Turmeric-  yellow; not sure if this is different from olive oil
14.  Woad-- again this blue colorant is looking more green than blue to me in the oil.

My take on the muslin tea bags vs. the coffee filters:  I liked the ease of using the tea bags.  I think they may be less suitable for the powdered substances which are likely to escape.  But they worked great for larger plant material.  The coffee filters were really easy to close up and staple. Plus, they are super cheap.   I'm not sure if turmeric filtered through it or not, but the alkanet and paprika definitely did.  In the future I may use both, but I am leaning toward the coffee filters for cost and easy throw away.

***Part II will feature a small sample of soap using each of these 14 colorants. Can't wait to see how each of these beautiful infused oils manifests itself in cold-processed soap.